Month: February 2013

Into the Wilderness

ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAIN STREAM

ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN STREAM

Amelia M. Murray, the maid of honor to Queen Victoria, camped in the Adirondack Mountains in 1855 with the Governor of New York, Horatio Seymour, his niece, and three guides.  While on

Adirondack Autumn Landscape Where Amelia Murray Hiked

Adirondack Autumn Landscape Where Amelia Murray Hiked

her five-day trip, she learned how to sleep on a hemlock bed, to bathe in Saranac Lake, and to hike sixteen miles in one day through a dense forest filled with “gigantic timber felled by storms…deep bogs and slippery rocks.”  She did all this while wearing a corset, which greatly restricted her breathing capacity, and very unsensible shoes.

Although she was a refined English lady, she carried her fair share — “a basket and a bundle.”  Throughout her diary account of the trip, she makes light of the dirt, rain, thunder, damp bedding and clothes.  She brags about her “London portable soup” which she had brought from England a year earlier and claimed was still in “good preservation” although one should “add lemons and a good store of sugar, brown and white” before eating it.  Amazing.  Her account is enthusiastic, joyous, and chatty.

She was a woman of privilege, an English lady.  Yet she was able to escape “polite society” long enough to have an adventure out of doors in the company of the genteel (the Governor) and not so genteel (the guides).  Although she writes after the trip that it took her “three days at Utica …to recruit and repose” herself, she had had a fine time and welcomed the chance to do it all again.

What is this need, this trenchant desire we have to be in the “wilderness”, to connect with the natural world?  Why would an elegant and refined lady of the 1800s who had probably never ventured much further than a stroll down an English country lane seek the untamed woods of New York State?  She sought adventure, yes, but more than that, I think.  She sought to discover a part of her that had not been tested, had lain dormant.  She wanted to test her fearlessness, her courage, her adaptability.  Normally, tests of fearlessness and courage are associated with men as men’s goals.  Men are supposed to like adventuring; they want to be tested in nature.  Isn’t that what the armed forces ads used to say, “Come see the world. Come adventuring with us.”?  But women need to be tested too. Even girls of thirteen seek adventure.

Last Sunday, my daughter Campbell announced she wanted to go fishing with me down by Cross Mill in Cross Mill stream about one and half miles away.  I thought she was kidding.  Even

Campbell, age 12, my outdoor girl.

Campbell, age 12, my outdoor girl.

though it was sunny and warm for February, 55 degrees, there were still patches of snow about, and I knew the water would be icy cold.  She persisted.   After packing an old red school backpack with a water bottle, water shoes, a towel, and a fishing rod, she pronounced herself ready to ride her bike down to the stream.  I couldn’t convince her to walk, arguing unsuccessfully that the roads are narrow and winding and in some places cars fly by at forty miles an hour. Ultimately, I agreed to her riding the bike as long as she stayed with me.  I wanted to walk.  We spent three hours walking and riding to and from the stream and playing in the water.  We waded in the frigid creek, our feet aching and numb.  We skipped rocks, looked for crayfish.  I snoozed in the sun on the brown picnic tabletop in between commenting to Campbell about her solo rock skipping contest.  On the way home, we spotted a male pheasant a few feet away, scurrying through the bushes by the side of the road.

Why had Campbell wanted to go? Did my daughter latch onto the idea of riding off with fishing rod, towel and water bottle because she needed to get away, needed to be out of doors?  Or did she want to go adventuring in order to test her mettle by  riding her bike to a place she hadn’t fished before and wading in frigid February water?  I doubt she could answer these questions or would even want to.  She’s thirteen.  She just wanted to go.

She just wanted to go like Opal Whiteley, a writer who grew up in Oregon in the early 1900’s.

Opel Whiteley, Nature Writer

Opel Whiteley, Nature Writer

Whiteley wrote in her diary at about age seven, “I like to go in among the rushes where the blackbird s with red upon their wings do go.  I like to touch fingertips with the rushes.  I like to listen to the voices that whisper in the swamp.  I do so like to feel the mud ooze up between my toes.”  Campbell could identify with that.  This desire to connect with nature and to seek sensory experiences in it is common to most of us.   My daughter and Opal Whiteley aren’t the only young girls who’ve found adventure and joy in nature.

Hannah Hinchman, a contemporary writer and visual artist, created an enchanted world in the woods near her home when she was a teen.  She spent whole days attired in a wood nymph dress dancing among tall oaks and pines, performing rituals she had “learned “ from the woodland fairies.  She “wanted these adventures to form an unassailable world, composed only

Hannah Hinchman, out door writer and artist.

Hannah Hinchman, out door writer and artist.

of pure things.”  As she grew older she abandoned her woodland fairies and her fantastical view of nature, yet nature continues to be her solace.  “If I were about to pull the trigger and happened to hear a red-winged blackbird, I doubt that I could complete the act.”

Sometimes this desire to connect to nature becomes a pathological need, a self-medication for mental or physical illness or ordinary loneliness.  When I was enduring and battling a brutal divorce, I used to run long and often on the Panther Branch trail in Maryland.  The two mile trail curves through the woods around house-sized boulders, decaying deadfall, and foot high maiden hair ferns edging the stream and winding up to the top of a hill.  I used my runs there as therapy, going over and over all the terrible lies and injustices.  I recounted the same sad incidents and betrayals in my head; the dialogue never changed.  “He said this; can you believe it? And then he did that on top of everything else.  Doesn’t he even care about his children?”

As I ran, I ran, literally and figuratively, through this dialogue every time.  I spoke sentences, paragraphs in my mind as if I were speaking to a therapist or friend.  As I hit the chest high boulder with the red columbine I would begin my diatribe.  I couldn’t stop it; it rolled on and on of its own free will.  After the divorce was final, I still began this ugly conversation whenever I got to the red columbine boulder.  I did it unintentionally, unconsciously, until I consciously put an end to it.

Sadly, after I’d resolved my divorce and the ugly voices, I no longer wanted to go to the place.  The Panther Branch trail, which had been my solace, my comfort, my dumping ground became my nemesis, a reminder of bitterness, hurt and anger.  I felt as if I’d deposited every vengeful thought and desire in its rocks and branches and they were all there waiting for me.  I didn’t go back for years and then only occasionally.

For me, the Panther Branch became a place that was lovely on the surface but underneath was seething with unpleasantness.

Why do we attach meaning to place?  Does it make it more real, make it more our own?  I heard a psychologist say that artists are often depressed because they try to find meaning in every single thing, and when they can’t find it, they become despondent.  Most of us don’t go that far, yet most of us do attribute some meaning to place.

Places are the tangible stage sets for our happiest and saddest moments, celebrations, rituals and events. Hospital bedsides, altars, and babies’ rooms are the backdrops for life’s most poignant moments. Some cultures construct places to house these significant events – churches, burial mounds and grounds, concert halls, and court rooms. Others, like Native Americans, believe some natural outside places hold deep significance; these places contain spirits or powers that other places do not.  They are hallowed or evil, full of the universe’s energy or places of death.

Place enriches or diminishes what happens within it.  Sipping tea in front of a roaring fire is not the same as drinking tea at the local Seven Eleven store.  Place can change our mood, alter our interactions with one another in positive or negative ways.   Having a conversation in a basketball court or in a room full of whining children is not the same as having a conversation beside a woodland stream or in a quiet, candle lit room.  “Place subtends and enfolds us, lying perpetually under and around us.  Place…is the bedrock of our being-in-the-world,” writes Edward S. Casey, author of  Getting Back Into Place.

I just came back from spending two days in New York City.  I love New York.  I love its

Manhattan Street Scene

Manhattan Street Scene

overabundance.  It’s so full of everything human, overflowing with everything people make. Art, buildings, fashion, food, noise, dirt.  People are everywhere.  On foot, in cars, on bicycles — talking, driving, and honking.  Walking around the city is like walking a human obstacle course; you are blasted with people, color, and noise — snippets of intimate conversations, a man on a space age motorized walker rolling along the sidewalk, pigeons under foot, shop window after shop window stuffed with every conceivable and inconceivable object.  Food markets, their cases over laden with hundreds of cheeses, ten types of proscuitto, twenty pates, truffles, black or white, sauced or canned, marinated or plain. The stimulation becomes overwhelming; the noise eventually becomes too noisy and then it’s time to go home.

After 48 hours of being high on the over-stimulation, I crashed and felt like Amelia M. Murray.  I needed three days at home in the woods in rural Pennsylvania “to recruit” myself.  Just like Murray, I wanted an adventure, a taste of the unfamiliar.  And when it was over, I wanted to repose — in my own place.

Adventure Calls

dolly-sods-wilderness-area-west-virginia-mark-vandyke

Dolly Sods West Virginia

 

Adventure Calls

After I’ve been cooped up in my office for too long, I yearn for an adventure that doesn’t involve hosiery or cell phones.  I long for the rush of a wilderness adventure with all its real and imagined dangers.  One where I’m camping along the Yukon River in Alaska one hundred miles from anywhere, watching grizzly bears come down to scoop up twenty-five pound salmon with their paws.  Or one where I’m backpacking in the Appalachian Mountains and a black bear sniffs around my tent.  But I don’t want too much danger.  Not like the adventure two mountain bikers had in California when they encountered a mountain lion while mountain biking.

They were riding along a narrow brushy mountain trail, talking about life and the scenery when suddenly a mountain lion leaped out and swatted one of the women off of her bike.  The mountain lion chomped down on her head, dragging her into the brush as her friend grabbed hold of her legs and pulled, screaming at the predator.   Luckily another biker came along and heard the screams.  He ran into the brush, picked up his bike, and threw it at the mountain lion all the while yelling as loudly as he could.  It worked. The lion slunk away and the injured woman was flown to shock trauma.  Later that same day rangers found the remains of another man also taken by a mountain lion, perhaps the same one.  The fellow who saved the day told the National Public Radio correspondent that he’d never go mountain biking alone or in that part of the mountains again.  I wouldn’t either; that’s too much adventure for me.

I think we forget that there is danger in the wilderness, in the woods and in the mountains of this country.  We’ve developed so much of it into cities, towns, farms, and suburbs that we forget another world is out there. And it’s not tame.  I’ve been reading Annie Dillard’s, Living Like Weasels.  She tells a story about a naturalist whom a weasel bites on the hand:   “The man could in no way pry the tiny weasel off, and he had to walk half a mile to water, the weasel dangling from his palm, and soak him off like a stubborn label.”   What a terrifying picture I had in my head after reading that.  Or the story I read in Adirondack Life magazine about a group of college students who tried to ascend 46 Adirondack high peaks (over 4000 feet) during a nineteen day Christmas vacation.   They didn’t make it.  One of them fell on a steep slop and luckily only sprained an ankle.  Still it took all day to get him out with the others carrying his equipment through snow so deep they “found themselves walking on the tops of small trees.”  People die in the Adirondack Mountains in the winter.

I don’t want a wilderness adventure that intense.  I don’t want to be traumatized or injured.  I don’t want to come out damaged, psychically or physically.  I want a wilderness adventure that will reconnect me with nature, one where I will be astonished and amazed, exhilarated and perhaps a little bit frightened.  I want a wilderness adventure like the one I had backpacking in the Dolly Sods Wilderness Area.

It is Memorial Day weekend and my husband, our dog, Jo, and I go backpacking every Memorial weekend in Dolly Sods.  Dolly Sods, West Virginia is a special place because it looks exactly like the northern Canadian tundra although it is only five hours away from Baltimore, Maryland. Timbering and fire changed the entire ecology of the mountain’s ridge in the 1800’s.  Before that happened, Dolly Sods was covered with seven to nine feet of humus and a red spruce and hemlock forest where, according to the Dolly Sods web site, “the average tree was four feet in diameter.”  After the forest fires and timbering, the rich land became a thin rocky soiled moor covered with bogs, streams, and dwarfed, bent evergreens about six feet high and 100 years old.  In 1975 Congress designated it a wilderness area. Congress didn’t need to tell us it was a wilderness.  We already know.

We love going to Dolly Sods at the end of May because anything is possible.  Sometimes it’s warm and the wild azaleas are blooming, fragrant flame orange.  Sometimes we hike across glacier-like snowfields three acres wide and two feet deep.  We have to be prepared for snow or rain or mosquitoes and 75 degrees.

We arrive mid afternoon and hike down the Blackbird Knob Trail a couple of miles to Red Creek.  Red Creek is about twelve feet wide and in most places no more than six inches deep.  We camp by its banks, eat freeze-dried shrimp, and  homemade spaghetti and drink cabernet.    We are back in heaven.

Dolly Sods Brook Stream

Red Creek

The next day we hike five miles further along the trail through the forest and back out into open land.  I love the openness and the views especially after the cloister of the woods.  We camp again beside water, this time a small brook with steep 3 ½ foot clay banks

At about 5:00 AM I wake up.  I feel as if I’m floating, as if I’m sleeping on a waterbed.  And in a way I am.  It’s pouring, and the floor of our tent is sitting on an inch of water.  I awaken my husband.  About an hour later at first light, the rain becomes a drizzle. We gulp down some granola and water, pack up our camp and walk to the water’s edge.  The brook has risen to the top of both banks and it’s rushing, not with too much force but enough to knock us over.  We hike up stream and find a spot where the water looks calm but is four feet deep.  If we walk  across we’ll be soaked and the clothes in our packs are already damp.  We can’t afford to walk seven miles in wet clothing when the air is 50, maybe 55 degrees.  It’s  perfect hypothermia weather.

So we take off our clothes and boots and walk across naked with our packs on top of our heads like African women carrying their laundry.  The water is surprisingly warm. Jo swims across and then shakes on the opposite bank as we dry off, get back into our clothes and boots and hike on.  At the next stream, we do the same thing.  It begins to rain lightly as we got closer to Red Creek.  I am feeling quite macho, high on adrenaline, and into the whole wilderness experience.

When we arrive at Red Creek, it has turned into a raging river, twice as wide, who knows how deep, large boulders sending waves of foaming water into churning whirlpools.  Three guys stand soaking wet, on the other side yelling at us.  We can’t hear them over the roar.  They yell again as we venture onto a boulder at the water’s edge.  “Don’t try to walk across.  You’ll get swept down stream.  We barely made it.”

Dolly Sods Stream

My husband wants to get across if we can.  He has power cord, a very strong thin rope only 1/8 inch in diameter and a carabiner, a steel D-shaped coupling link used in rock climbing.  He ties a rock to one end of the power cord and throws it across to the guys on the opposite bank.  They catch it on the third try.  Then they throw it back to us.  We construct a pulley, using the carbiner tied in the middle to ferry our backpacks across.  It works.

Now to ferry a person.  I go first.  This time I can’t take off my clothes, not with three guys standing there.  I’ll have to be wet the last two miles.   I keep my boots on too.  No telling what’s under the water.  I hope the guys are strong enough to pull me across fast because there is a terrifying rapid in the middle of the creek where the latte colored water churns and rises and swirls like a hungry thing.  It has slung each backpack out like a pea in a slingshot ready to shoot it down stream. I am shaking as I wade into the water and grab onto the cord.  I get to the middle. The current sucks my feet off the creek bottom, pulls them down stream and I am suddenly on my stomach, my legs strung out like the tail on a kite.  I hang on as the cord stretches and stretches. All I can see is me being swept away like a twig or a leaf bouncing from rock to rock, unable to grasp anything that can stop me. I can hear my husband yelling, “Pull. Pull.”  And they do.  Just as I think I can’t hold on, the cord relaxes and my feet feel the river bottom.  I have made it.

Jo, our dog is next.  My husband ties her up with a makeshift harness of webbing straps and clips her onto the carabiner.  He’ll go across with her, holding onto the dog with one hand so her head won’t go under and holding onto the power cord pulley with the other.  The guys begin to pull.   Jo’s head is above the water. They hit the mid-stream rapid.  The cord stretches out and out and snaps.  My husband and Jo go flying downstream bobbing and turning under water.  I scream, “Hold onto the dog.  Hold onto the dog.”  I know if he lets go she’ll be swept away and be gone.  My husband grabs onto a rock, pulls himself and Jo into shallow water and they are out of danger.  But they’re on the wrong side.   I’m shaking as we re-throw the cord and tie it back together.  We try again.  I can hardly bear to watch.  They hit the bad spot; the guys pull faster. The cord holds.  They are across.  Shivering, we hug, and laugh and kiss each other.  We’ve done it.

After we get back to the car, change, eat, and have a beer, we are feeling quite triumphant.  We’ve had an adventure, a real wilderness adventure.  It was scary and challenging and daring.  And we had made it.  We feel like pioneers who have survived a flood, modern day adventurers who’ve made the summit.  We can’t wait to tell our friends and our families.  I talk about it for weeks.